Category Archives: Traveling in Spain

A stag do, English breakfasts and black sand: Tenerife part two

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Last few days in Tenerife.  Check out the next post for a photo album!

This is the one of the meals we had on the shore. It's so easy to sit on the beach shore and eat dinner.

Day 3: Fish and Chips
Thus starts the British saga.  The night before we were eating supper on our terrace, when the guys on the terrace next to us needed an opinion on an outfit their friend was wearing: pink fluffy vest, pink boots, pink shorts and a pink cowboy hat.  Where would you find an outfit like that? A stag do, of course (or a despedido de novios in Spanish/ bachelor party in the states).  We now have a list of common phrases from the UK that Matt, Mike, Sean, Aaron, Paul and Chris taught us, such as quid (pounds), penny floater, cheers, throwing shapes.  Finally, we’re learning how to speak “proper” English.  Someday, when we go to England, we’ll fit right in, with our awful British accents and all.

And how could we have a true Tenerife experience without trying fish and chips? (It was surprising how many restaurants advertised English breakfasts!)  We found a hole-in-the-wall place, Miami Bar, and proceeded to eat the best meal I have had in my entire life.  Fresh fish, fries, salad and a cold beer.  There was a football (soccer in the states, footy in the UK) game on, and the guys in the back would yell every time someone scored a goal, no matter which team it was that scored.  At the very end of our meal, one of the cooks walked around with a plate of homemade fries for us to try. (He grew those potatoes himself!)  This is exactly what you should do when traveling.  Find some place that may not look so attractive on the outside.  Chances are the food will be good and the people will be friendly.

Here are those potatoes that we tried! With the red and green sauce on the left.

Day 4: Beach, beach and more beach
It was day four and we still hadn’t gone to the beach.  We decided that needed to change.  So, we hopped out of bed and made our way down to playa de las americas.  It was perfect weather, a little breezy and absolutely sunny.   Picture this: black sand (even though it was more gray than black), huge waves (it is the Atlantic after all), beach umbrellas scattered all over the beach (although you had to pay to use the chairs that were under the umbrellas), and people selling massages, fruit and doughnuts to all the sunbathing people (why doughnuts??).  I thought about selling massages myself at a better price to pay for our meal that night, then decided against it.  There were only a few of us (me and some of the stag do guys) who were brave enough to venture into the water, and even though it was cold at first, you just had to get used to it.  It was refreshing!  You didn’t even need to swim, just float, because of all the salt in the water.  My favorite part of the entire trip was body surfing those waves.  Next time, I am absolutely learning how to surf.

There it is..the Atlantic Ocean right off the coast of Tenerife.

Later that night we ate at a tiny restuarant on the shore and met the coolest server ever, Sherry (like the wine).  He was from Pakistan and has lived and worked in Tenerife for a long time (around nine years or so).  Servers in Tenerife tend to stand in front of the restaurants and “encourage” people to try out their restaurant.  It could get a little crazy.  One guy was carrying an axe/wood concoction and tried to herd Sara into the restaurante.  I’m not exactly sure what he was wearing…we didn’t stick around long enough to find out. Sherry taught us that Mondays are chicken days, Tuesdays are salad days and Wednesdays are fish days.  When he realized that Sara was eating chicken and it was Sunday, he quickly said, “Y domingos son días de pollo también.” (Sundays are chicken days too).  He also taught us that if you have been drinking too much (hypothetically) that it’s a good idea to take a tequila shot with a hot pepper in it when you first wake up.  Well, that may work for him, but I’m not trying it! On the way home, we got ice cream bars.  If you haven’t tried them, you need to try Magnum ice cream bars.  Life-changing.

mmmm..blueberry banana.

Day 5: And here’s a four star hotel…here’s another..
The last day was our most ambitious.  We wanted to check out even more beaches, but the weather didn’t look promising..for the first time on our entire trip! (And I thought it was going to rain every day).  So we got a café and waited at an outdoor cafetería, shivering until the clouds blew over.  Then we kept walking to another cafetería and got a smoothie/burgers.  Ok, I know it sounds like we ate alot, but you have to understand..being at the beach really does increase your appetite.  After walking around for a while, we ended up at the same beach we were at the day before, ate the most amazing veggie burger (food again!) and headed back to the hotel to attempt to get rid of some of that black sand that ended up all over us.  (The next day, we found more sand in our hair..how does that work?).

We were heading out that night to find a Spanish bar, and who did we happen to see?  Our bus driver, Juso!  He told us to hop in the bus and gave us a tour of all the hotels on the island.  We drove and drove and he said, “éste tiene tres estrellas, y éste tiene cuatro estrellas, y éste…” (this one has three stars, and this one has four stars, and this one…) If we learned nothing else about the island, at least we know which hotels are the most expensive.

I could survive if I had to live here..

We all agreed that we definitely could have stayed another week.  But we had to leave.  Early.  We got to the airport before I realized how much stuff I had in my suitcase.  Why was it so much bigger than it was before?  And RyanAir, our airline, really did mean one piece of luggage.  One very small piece of luggage.  It took me a few tries to get my suitcase to fit in the suitcase size checker (all luggage has to fit, or you have to check it).  I’m so thankful for those understanding security guards.  They helped me flip over the suitcase and stuff it into the checker so it would fit.  And even though I had to throw away a bag of chips and a plastic peanut butter container, it was worth not paying the 50 euro to check the bag!

The first two days were the busiest.  The last three were relaxing.  And it seems like I learned more Spanish than ever before because of all the random people we talked to.  It wasn’t hard to start conversations at all. The people who live on the Canary Islands are very open and willing to share about their lives.  Plus when you’re friendly, people will give you free chupitos.  (You can look that word up if you need to).

It was a little disappointing to come home to the cold and rainy weather after five days in the sun, but I got to run in the rain, go to Madrid (and take the train on my own for the first time!), try food from Morroco (french toast and fresh milk), go grocery shopping (which doesn’t happen because my host mom cooks for me) and generally enjoy some quiet time before school starts again.  Aunque…todavía le hecho de menos Tenerife. (Although…I still miss Tenerife).

Huelgas, german tours and a volcano: Tenerife part 1

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Sitting here on a balcony looking over a bustling city, I feel like I have come home.  Sometimes you have to go away from somewhere and come back to really appreciate it.  Well, it worked.  After five days in the Canary Islands, the sunniest place in the world, I’m starting to realize how much I love Spain .

My coffee was very strong this morning thanks to Semana Santa.

Semana Santa
This week is Semana Santa (in other words spring break).  What do people in Spain do during Semana Santa? Well, I’ll find out this Sunday when I go to one of the annual processions in Madrid.  For now, all I know is that everything is closed this week.  I couldn’t even buy milk for my coffee this morning.

If you want to read about a typical Semana Santa celebration check out my blog this Sunday.  In the meantime, look below to see how I celebrated Semana Santa in the most beautiful place in the world.

Special edition of El País. It's all about la huelga general.

Airport: too early for a huelga
We had been reading about la huelga (the strike)  all week long.  People were concerned.  All of Spain was supposed to shut down.  And we had a flight leaving that very morning.  Thankfully, we had a chauffer to drive us to the airport (Sara’s boyfriend, Alberto).  Even if we didn’t, there was a “servicio mínimo” that required a certain percentage of public transportation to continue.  Once we got to the airport, we found out what a huelga was like.  Definition of a huelga: people blowing whistles, wearing huelga t-shirts, waving huelga signs and shouting, “Huelga, huelga.” Like I said, it was far too early for a huelga.  On the plane, I read a special edition of El País to find out what all the fuss was about.  “La huelga pretende meter presión al Gobierno central para que cambie una reforma laboral.”  Basically, people aren’t happy with reforms that President Mariano Rajoy has made, such as making it easier for employers to fire their employees.  According to the PP (popular party) the huelga didn’t change anything.  But you can decide for yourself by clicking here to read more.

La playa de las americas. My first view of the beach.

Day 1: Guaguas
We arrived in Tenerife at a very early eight in the morning.  We had no idea where to find a bus to take us to our hotel, then realized that in Tenerife the word for bus is “guagua.”  So that’s why we couldn’t find it.  By that point we were starving so we devoured some digestive biscuits and peanut butter while waiting for the guagua.  As soon as we saw the guagua we all jumped up like crazy people to make sure it wouldn’t leave without us.  Don’t worry, it didn’t.  The very first thing we did when we got to the hotel: explore.  We got coffee right next to the sea and watched all these people walk by in their shorts and bikinis like it was summer or something.  We found out later that it’s only chilly in the morning, by afternoon it does feel like summer.  I decided then and there that I loved it here.

The three of us girls! Sara on the left, Andrea on the right. Instead of saying "cheese" the English gentleman who took our picture meowed..is that what they do in the UK?

And guess what we saw on our way back to the hotel? Another huelga.  Lovely. The only words I could think of to describe it?  Clown parade.  Seriously.  Everyone was blowing whistles at different times, shouting “huelga” without any coordination and walking right in front of our path.  We needed to cross the street, but how were we going to get by this clown parade?  Try to walk through the huelga, brilliant idea.  As soon as there was a break in the action, we raced in front of five guys carrying a banner.  That’s when the weirdness started.  “Huelga, huelga, huelga!” was all I could hear.  I felt like I was in a random dance rave with a bunch of disgruntled workers from a labor union.  They started to surround us, and it seemed like we would never escape.  “Sara! Andrea! Help me!” I yelled to my friends.  We finally made it to the other side, and stood there in shock for five mintues.  Ok, so maybe I’m exagerating a bit, but once in your life, you’ve got to experience a huelga.  Five hours by the pool in the sun and shopping at Mango Outlet, or “omelette” whichever you prefer, pretty much sums up the rest of our day.  What a day.  And a great start to Semana Santa.

I think this was the typical Canarian dress back in the day. We must have tried at least 15 different sauces. She kept offering them. How could we refuse?

Day 2: German tour of Mount Teide, the volcano
Eight in the morning on Friday seemed like the perfect time to take a tour of the largest mountain in Spain.  The pamplet we found promised a tour, complete with a typical Canarian lunch and an informational show.  Hmm.  Informational show? It was only ten euro, so we decided to risk it.  We drove for about two hours, and the tour guide started to speak in German and translate to English.  Where was the Spanish?  Apparently, there were more tourists from Germany and England than anywhere else.  And all retired…there were no youngsters on that bus.  We drove into a city close to Mount Teide and found out why the tour was only ten euro.  The informational show was all about blankets.  Fluffy, bear blankets.  Don’t get me wrong..I love blankets, but two hours about blankets?  The best moment of the day: when our tour guide came over and asked us where we were from.  When she found out we were from the states she said, “Oh, well we can’t actually ship to the states.  You guys are young, so how about you go explore and come back in two hours?” Yes, please!  We walked all over the city, tried papas arrugadas (potatoes with red and green sauce) cactus jelly and found a beautiful garden.  In all, way more enjoyable than a blanket show.  And we still got our free meal, a German sausage and potato salad.  Definitely typical Canarian food.

Mira! Look! I'm standing in front of a volcano!

We talked to the bus drivers, Juso and Mundo, who were from Tenerife, for a while before we started our journey. (Actually, they argued over who was the better driver, better looking etc.) “No tenéis más ropa?” Mundo asked us. (You don’t have more clothes?)  What a silly question, we thought.  Then it got cold.  Just so you know, there are two distinct areas in Tenerife, the north and south.  The south is where all the beaches are… and all the warmth.  The north is completely covered with pine trees.  As soon as we passed the clouds, it started to get cold.  Cold and windy.  It seemed like we were in a different world as climbed higher and higher through the forests.  And then we saw the volcano.  It was huge.  It seemed like a desert on the moon, with all the rocks, sand and craters.  The tour guide kept saying, “Look at all the different colors!”  We kept thinking, “What colors? Gray and black?”  On the way back down the mountain, we drove by the place where “Clash of the Titans” was filmed and a few observatories (can you imagine seeing the stars that close?).  And, finally, we got back to the hotel.  We had no idea the tour would be so long, but everything we got to see was worth the ten euro.

To find out how the last three days in Tenerife turned out, check out my next blog post.  There was just too much to write about to fit it all in one post!  Until then, cheers. (British phrase that means thanks, bye and a number of other things).

Granada: city between the mountains and the sea

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“Jolin, que sitio bonito!” said the lady at the post office when she saw my postcard from Granada.  “Jolin, querría visitarlo!”  In English, “What a beautiful place! I would love to visit it!” with a few colorful exclamations thrown in.  And she’s right.  Granada, with a mix of historical and cultural significance and laid-back ambience is one of my favorite cities in Spain.  Okay, who am I kidding? So far, Granada is my favorite city in Spain.

Just posing for a picture with the city of Salobreña behind us. Also pausing for a quick breather after climbing what seemed like two miles of stairs.

Over the river and through the mountains
On the way to Andalucia (the south of Spain where Granada is located) we got to drive through the mountains. (If you want to follow my journey click here to see a map of the trip from Madrid to Granada.)  And these weren’t just any mountains.  These were olive tree covered mountains.  Apparently, Spain is famous for producing olives.  (I’m surprised I’m just finding this out now.)  Anyway, picture a huge bus driving on the side of mountains so steep you could look over the side and see the base of the cliff.  Nervous? Me? No way. I kept scooting closer to the side of the bus closest to the cliff to see as much as possible.  Our bus driver (who smoked cigars and spoke in the most gravely voice I’ve ever heard) had it all under control.

We got serenaded after our buffet meal. They were college students selling their cds to make a little extra money. And we thought the cd they set down on our table was a present!

All-you-can-eat buffet in a four-star hotel?
After dropping all our stuff off at Hotel Carmen (a four-star hotel with the most amazing buffet) we toured the city. Something about this city was different.  The architecture. The people. The ambience.  Earlier on the bus, Javier, our proffesor/guide, explained that Granada was one of the last Moorish strongholds before the Muslim population was forced to either convert to Christianity or be expelled to Africa. Well, the Muslim cultural influences from the time period are still flourishing today.  We toured a some of the cathedrals before just walking around the streets looking at all the vendors selling scarfs and purses on the street kind of like an open air market.   After trying on 30 different perfumes at an aromatherapy shop, (I have such a hard time with decisions!) we sat on colorful cushions at a café and devoured an almond flavored nut bar along with our vanilla and cinnamon tea.  We proceeded to stuff our faces at the hotel buffet, and decided that the orange mousse was by far the best.

Ah. The beach was just perfect. We probably took about a million of these shots. Photo shoot? Yep.

La playa (the beach)
Salobreña.  Someday my vacation home will be in Salobreña.  Or maybe I will just live there. (Only if my family moves with me, of course.)  When Javier said that the tropical environment allowed avocados and tropical fruit to grow there, I knew this was the place for me.  This deceptively small city looks like Greece.  Clean, white and full of bright blue pots.  Basically, it’s a city of contrast.  After climbing to the top, which seemed like a five mile walk (like I said, deceptively small) you can see the snowy mountains on one side and the beach on the other.  We finally made it to the beach.  Just sitting on the shore, watching the waves crash, smelling the sea air and listening to the kids playing in the waves was one of the best moments the entire weekend.  Except for the time when we ordered a salad with avocado, tomatoes, mozzarella cheese with little pepper things, swordfish, calamari and caramel Snapps to finish it off.  Yep, that moment runs a close second.

Flamenco dancer in action.

Can you dance flamenco?
After being anywhere near the beach, there is no question about it.  You need a nap.  Plus, we had to conserve energy for the Flamenco concert later that evening.  After ANOTHER buffet-style meal, we hopped on a bus that drove through the streets of Granada. We stopped at one of the neighborhoods, Albaicín to walk around.  Because the streets were only big enough for one car to drive comfortably, every now and then someone would yell, “Cuidado, coche!” (Careful, car!) and we would all flatten ourselves against the wall like pancakes.  After hopping back on the bus and waiting two hours for the buses going the other way to pass us, we finally made it.  Flamenco.  I had been looking forward to this moment ever since my last blogpost about flamenco.  We all ordered Sangria and watched the most intense, powerful dancing I’ve ever seen.  Then I decided it would be a good idea to try out this intense, powerful dance.  Check out this video of my 30 seconds dancing Flamenco to decide for yourself if I should be a Flamenco dancer when I grow up.  But really, who cares about that?  It was so much fun! On the way home we belted “I will survive” in our mini bus.  At one point, we drove by a beer commercial being shot.  Later that night we searched for discotecas (dance clubs) and found two that were open and playing 70s music.  And that pretty much sums up my night.

Singing opera in a garden. Mary, next to me, is crying because of the sad opera story. (Actually, it's just the sun in her eyes).

One of the ponds to help people cool off in the Alhambra during the hot summers.

The Alhambra
Next day we went to the Alhambra.  Javier told us that there are three things to remember about the architecture.  When the architects constructed the Alhambra for the last Muslim Emirs (important rulers) they used three different forms of art because the human body was never used in artwork.  1) inscriptions 2) nature and 3) geometry.  The amount of detail in all the architecture was almost overwhelming, but the gardens were so clear and beautiful.  You could almost see the entire city from the open roofs.  Halfway through, I got to sing some opera in one of the gardens.  It was a magical moment.  Especially, when we all started singing The Sound of Music’s “Do-Re-Mi” together after.  That was truly magical.

Home, sweet home
We finally got home after six more hours driving and watching Two Weeks Notice on the bus…in English!  I think it was a much deserved break from thinking in Spanish.  We came back to a carnaval celebration in the center of Alcalá.  One lady wore a costume made entirely out of bottle caps, some people were dressed like cans of Fanta orange pop, one man was even dressed as a “Just married.”  Don’t ask me how he figured that one out.  The little boy my host mom watches was dressed like a duck.  This weekend, everyone was wearing costumes.  We just wanted to sleep.

Peace. Pure peace.

The next day, I realized that I needed this trip.  In Granada, I finally got to take a break and enjoy all the little moments.  Hey, guess what I just realized? We can do that every day, no matter what we’re doing.  Like my friend Alesia says, we don’t have to wait until we’re 60 to enjoy all the beautiful things God created for us.  Life is too important to wait for that perfect moment.  When that paper is finally done.  When you’re done with school.  When you’re done with grad school.  When you’ve started your family.  When your career is successful.  Enjoying life shouldn’t be a vague hope or thought in the future. No matter what you are doing, it’s so important to enjoy the present moment.  The time is now.

Frogs, castles and the ‘sound of music’

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Have you ever seen the first scene from the “Sound of Music?” You know, the one where Maria runs through the mountains belting how the hills are alive?  Basically, that was my weekend.  Oh, and I can’t leave out the castle, palace, aqueduct, cathedral and the cafeterías.

Layered up and ready for the cold in La Granja. You can see start of the awesomeness (Palacio Real) behind me.

How is it possible to visit all these places in one weekend?  Simple.  Just hop on a bus heading to one of the coldest places in Spain. Segovia.  And while the Visit Segovia Web site may say, “The city’s elevation of 3,280 ft. provides a refreshing atmosphere during the long summer evenings,” don’t let that fool you.  Despite all the warnings I got from Alcalá locals (Jose Luis from choir, the mom of one of my English students, my host mom…) and the three layers of pants, thick socks, boots, a warm sweater, jacket, gloves, scarf and a hat, I was still not prepared for the incredible cold that was Segovia that morning.

It was so much colder and more like an ice skating rink than we ever could have imagined.

La Granja
But the view of the mountains from the bus on our way there made me forget the cold (until we got off the bus of course).  We made our first stop at La Granja, the summer home of King Philip V and ten minutes away from Segovia.  In every garden there is at least one fountain, with 26 fountains overall, and they each represent some mythical story.  (One story: a king was angry that people made fun of his sons so he turned them all into frogheads. Hence the word “frogs” in my title.)  At this point the view was so breathtaking…that we started singing Edelweiss.  I felt like a Von Trapp family singer.

After slipping and sliding back down the long drive to our bus (new phrase: Ten cuidado, el suelo está rezbaladizo! Be careful, the floor is slippery!) we were on our way to Segovia.

I can't even begin to imagine the work it took to pull this aqueduct together.

Segovia
After gulping down our bocadillos (snacks) as fast as we could, we were there.  How could we tell?  Well if the winding streets, houses and hills didn’t give it away, the huge aqueduct in the middle of everything did.  According to Javier, proffessor/tour guide/generally brilliant person, the Roman aqueduct was used to carry water from the top of the mountain to the village.  The crazy part..only the top part is made out of cement.  The rest of it was built with just one stone set on top of another.  How does it all stay together??

After wandering past the tempting cafés (it wasn’t time for lunch, but we were ready!) we ended up in one of the most elegant buildings in Europe, the Cathedral.  There was so much religious artwork.  (Now I understand why there was a painting of the Virgin Mary on the side of a semi-truck on the way home).  What fascinated me most was the huge book of music on a turntable in the middle of the room.  You couldn’t even read the notes, but the choirs would sing for hours from this book.  And we think play rehearsal is bad.

The Cathedral is one of the most intricate arquitectural wonders I have seen so far.

Finally, we got a lunch break and ended up eating ponche, a typical Segovian dessert, and Cola-Cao, basically hot milk and Nesquick.  It was perfect.  Especially, when we found out that the café also made pizza.  After lunch we searched for postcards, hats, a shotglass and earrings.  Because it was “siesta time,” there were only a few shops open, but with our shopping skills we found everything…except the shotglass.

Ponche. Sugar. Pure sugar.

And then…we made it to the castle, the Alcázar.  Have you ever seen Cinderella’s castle in Disneyland? Well, this is where Walt Disney got his grand idea.  (Even though he sued everyone who tried to use the idea after him..) This Medieval castle was built almost 800 years ago and used as a fortress along with a popular vacation spot for King Alphonso VI.  This is also where Queen Isabel was proclaimed queen and later gave her financial backing so that Columbus could “discover” the new world.  The view from the turrets was amazing, but I loved the tapestrys the most.  The 12th century Spaniards were so smart.  What better way to keep your room warm and have a conversation starter?

The castle named Alcázar. I know there were secret pasages somewhere. If only we had more time..

Back in Alcalá
After a long cold day, we were finally home.  But we weren’t finished yet.  We still had a birthday part for our host mom, Charo.  She was so surprised when we showed up at the friend’s house she was just leaving.  She couldn’t understand why we all had to climb back up the stairs again.  When we opened up the door and everyone jumped out and yelled surprise from behind a curtain that I didn’t even see, I almost had a heart attack.  There were so many people, talking so fast, drinking wine and eating food.  My host sister and I made feeble attempts at conversation with Alvaro (a friend of the family or someone’s husband?).  After appetizers, soda, wine, champagne, cake and pie it was time.  For sleep.  I was done for the next day…but it was absolutely worth it.

A lazy Saturday in Alcalá

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Check out my most recent slideshow of life in Alcalá de Henares. It’s so beautiful and warm here, it’s insane. (Actually not warm…everyone here keeps talking about how cold it is..but it is warmer than Ohio!)

Máchinas de ejercisio en el parque? – Exercise machines in the park?

More pictures of REAL adventures to come this weekend. We’re visiting Segovia, which Jose Luís, one of the bases in my choir, says is one of the most beautiful places in Spain…I can’t wait to see it!  Click here to check out the route from Alcalá to Segovia. Have you ever traveled to Segovia?  Or any other place in the world starting with an “S” for that matter?